In July 2023, I returned to the French Alps to complete the second half of the GR5—also known as the Grande Traversée des Alpes. I had hiked the first section in 2021, and coming back felt like finishing an important chapter. This time, I walked solo and mostly (wild) camped, experiencing the GR5 with new confidence, deeper connection, and greater independence.

My hike began in Thonon-les-Bains after a long and chaotic travel day. I quickly found my rhythm again: waking up early, following the red-and-white trail markers, and setting up camp in remote places with epic views or local camp sites. The weather the first week was unpredictable. I faced multiple thunderstorms, including one dramatic sprint to a mountain hut just before lightning hit nearby. But there were also sunny days filled with alpine meadows, glacier views, and even sightings of Mont Blanc. One of the most memorable wild camps was at Lac d’Anterne, where I pitched my tent under a glowing sky surrounded by fellow hikers and mountain silence. As I progressed, I passed through iconic mountain ranges like the Vanoise and Mercantour, with their steep climbs, shepherd huts, and rugged beauty. The section around Ceillac and Lac des Thures stood out for its 360° views and peaceful valleys, where I often had the mountains all to myself.

The final stretch toward the sea tested my limits. Water was scarce, my body was tired, and a locked phone near the end left me temporarily disconnected in Menton. Still, I pushed through, watching the Mediterranean appear in the distance after nearly a month of hiking. In total, I walked for nearly four weeks, covering roughly 300 km and thousands of meters in elevation. The GR5 offered not just a physical challenge, but a deeply personal journey through solitude, resilience, and natural wonder. It remains one of my favorite trails in Europe—for its landscape, variety, and balance between wilderness and comfort. Small joys like a warm boulangerie breakfast, best cheese or the world’s best tart at a mountain refuge made it all worthwhile. 

Find my full trail diary and camping tips on Polarsteps!